2019 Eurasia Adventure - Introduction to Baku

Why are we even here? Why did we chose to come the the Caucuses? The vast majority of Americans I talked to never even heard of this area. Mores the pity. For this area that is right on the crossroads between Europe and Asia has also been at the crossroads of history for millennia.

Let's find this area first. Go to your map or map app. Find the Black Sea. Find the Caspian Sea. That strip of land in between is the Caucuses, named for a mighty mountain range that dominates the area. Three countries, relatively young in age but old in heritage, are found here, Azerbaijan, Georgia and Armenia. Each of the three has distinct roots yet were mostly dominated by the great civilizations that were on all sides of them.

This is an area where some of the roots of civilization our found. Sheep were domesticated not far away in what is now Turkey. Georgia was a area where wine making is thought to have originated. This whole area came under the sway of the ancient Persian Empire that rose before Alexander the Great and the Macedonians. Then it was flipped back and forth between the Romans and Parthians of Persia, then the Byzantines and the Sassanids of Persia. Finally Islam swept through. During the mega-Islamic civilization of the Middle Ages, these areas were a fundamental part. The Mongols and Turks came next. By the 17th and 18th century, a revived Persian Islamic Empire fought with Russian Imperial aspirations. Russia prevailed the the area was under first Russian and then Soviet domination for over 250 years until the 1990's. Now these countries are independent and seeking their own individual ways.

We are starting in Baku, the capital city of Azerbaijan. Of the three it has the heaviest Islamic influence. Yet as an ancient Persian area, the practice of Zoroastrianism and fire worship were strong. Azeri national strength was at its height during the 14th and 15th century. During the whole Islamic civilization period, Baku in particular was a very important center on the Silk Road. Islamic travel documentary writers like Ibn Battuta spoke of its importance as a transit point.

With the Russian/Persian conflict and aftermath, it lost importance. But then in the late 19th century the discovery of oil led to massive economic growth. The Soviet area left its mark. The country today still has great petro-wealth. The feel of the inner city is much more European. The young people we meet seem more into their Euro-secular heritage. It certainly does not feel like an Islamic country.

Today we were out an about in the city. That combination heritage was so evident in the architecture and cityscape.

Welcome to the Caucuses, the place where Europe and Asia meet.