Monday, April 15, 2019

2019 Eurasia Adventure - Checking Out Yerevan

Today was day one of three in Armenia, specifically in the capital city of Yerevan. As usual we spent it walking around getting a feel for the place. First let's get some history both ancient, old and current

Like all the nations of the Caucasus, Armenia is old. All that was written about the other two countries as cradles of civilization hold true here. During the Roman expansion of the late Republic, Armenia was an important state and remained so all through the Empire. It frequently was a client state of the Empire (and subsequently Byzantium) or of its enemy the Persian Parthians and Sassanids. Armenia was the first kingdom to convert to Christianity (Georgia was the second).

Comes the Islamic expansion and that changes. Now Armenia becomes a piece of land fought over and divided. During the early middle ages when Georgia's kingdom was strong, it controlled much of Armenia. The ultimate end of it as an independent state was with the rise of the Ottoman Empire within which it was incorporated. During the 500 or so years of Ottoman rule, Armenians actually spread throughout the Empire. The Ottoman Empire was ecumenical and there were plenty of opportunities. Armenian communities many and many of their members did well.

Starting with in the early 19th century with the Russian take over of the Caucasus region from Persia, there began talk setting up a renewed homeland for Armenians, what became known as the 'Armenian Question'. 

During the falling years of the Ottoman state and the rise of Turkish Nationalism going into WW I, a new dynamic was created where Christian Armenians were considered potentially not loyal and allied to the Christian Russians and not a good one for Armenians - a major holocaust that led to the deaths of 1.5 million Armenians. You are you are free to research it further.

Finally an independent Armenian state was established in 1918 but it quickly was consumed by the Soviet Union. The fall of that state finally allowed for an independent Armenia. It quickly was involved with a conflict with the new Azerbaijan state due to areas where both had claims and where members of each ethnicity were found. Another mess and in fact today the two countries are technically at war, there are sniper incidents regularly, you cannot travel directly from country to country.

Armenia today has managed to achieve a geopolitical balancing act. It gets much aid from the United States which has a major Embassy here. Russia has an alliance and stations troops in Armenia. Yet Iran also has major economic ties. But this has not led to a robust economy. Yerevan might be doing reasonably well but if you are in the countryside as we saw yesterday, things are much different.

Getting a Feel for the City

It has been so apparent with each place we've visited just how different each city looks and feels
To me it is all about patterns, lines and textures
Baku, so much about the newest, sleekest ultra modern look
Tbilisi about retention of its 19th century look
Here in Yerevan, there is its own look
Patterns




The 'monumental look'


The street art here - not so vibrant



There is one operating mosque in town, fairly new, financed by Iran


This looked like a market

But it just turned out to be a modern supermarket and mall
 
Our guidebook said that the renovation of the city had demolished most of the 19th century buildings with much loss of heritage but that one area, the Kond, remained 
Going into the area
 Looking back at the modern city
To be honest, it looked dilapidated




Miscellaneous
Policeman hard at work
Carpet piano
Child
Child outing blogger!!!!
Armenia, known for its brandy
And lots of nuts and dried fruit
There are busts and statues of of famous Armenians all through the city
And they all have the same look

Reminds me a lot of Albania - another place trod upon by history

This didn't fit any category




What could be sadder and more cruel to this photographer than a fountain not working

Lastly
SIGNS OF THE WORLD 
"Do Not Extend Arm While Dropping Trash!"




1 comment:

alexis said...

signs of the world also looks like a person emptying his/her wallet