Thursday, November 16, 2017

Italia 2017 - Chilling In Trastevere

Trastevere is a section of central Rome that is on the west side of the Tiber River. One of the few sections of Old (as opposed to Ancient) Rome that was on the west side of the River, it is quite a bit less frequented by the tourist hordes. (Note - I don't suppose any of you are slightly bemused that Wife and I NEVER consider ourselves as part of the 'Tourist Hordes'. Perish the though. We are 'Travelers'.  A far more refined group I must say.) After enduring the crowds at the Vatican on Tuesday, spending a quiet day wandering the banks of the Tiber and the Medieval streets of Trastevere indulging in photography at our own pace and without pressure.

Moseying to and along the Tiber
More opportunities to see 'old stuff'
These are the oldest temples still standing in their original state dating to the second century BCE

I put these ruins in because they date from the late Republican period about 100 BCE
Another juxtaposition of Ancient and Medieval

Stuff along the streets
As our Airbnb host told us
"If you just walk, you can't help but see art in Rome."

A company in Rome is promoting Wolves' Milk
One of their advertisements 
No one is so great that they can be a resting place for a seagull
Scenes along the Tiber

Villa Farnesina
A palazzo of yet another of the powerful Roman families, the Farenese, the draw here is an incredible trove of frescoes painted by Raphael and his workshop. Originally we had not planned to go to another museum after getting our fill at the Vatican. But the weather was not cooperating so we ducked into here. We were glad we did. There was practically no one there, you were way closer to the art, and you had the time to study it. Plus it had a good handheld audio program. 

Can I start off by saying the patron Farenese evidently knew what he liked and made sure their was a lot of it in this. The fact that Raphael shared his tastes probably helped make this a mutually enjoyable commission. 
To get the full idea of what one of the rooms looked like, a panoramic video

Now the detail

Next we headed to Santa Maria in Trastevere
This is the oldest active church in Rome dating to the 4th century
It is noted by for some spectacular mosaics that are dated to the 12th century
They have a decidedly Byzantine look to them if you ask me

Wandering in Trastevere

Getting cell signal in old buildings can be a challenge

This is an ideal environment for doing in environment shots of the elusive photographer in her natural habitat

Ah, I think I have found one
Must not let her shake me
Quietly now. She's sizing up her quarry. Can't spook her
Darn! She's so fast
Ah. Again she sizes up her prey
And that moment when she makes the kill

Yet again hunger and fatigue have us go to a place that I fear is touristy but again we are rewarded with a great meal plus our waitress was such dear. I was crabby from hunger and communication issues but she powered through with sweetness and patience. I put a great review on TripAdvisor extolling her praises
Some lovely grilled vegetables (a favorite of ours on this trip and very good chicory sauteed in oil and garlic
An excellent Cacio e Pepe
(And I know how to make it now ha ha)
And what might be the best single dish of pasta we had on this trip, this places version of Lasagna Bolognese

And Finally Last but not Least
Let's see:
No Cell phones
No tennis outfits
No Huskies
No male hats with full brims
Don't eat gelato and drink wine at the same time
Don't yell at people with a megaphone


Agent W and the Derf said...

"The Travelers" have explored some very beautiful areas of Rome ! Thank you for sharing
your adventures!!

alexis said...

I think it'd be worthy of posting of a bad meal in Italy. Seems impossible!

de-I said...

Not impossible but pretty freaking rare. Even the buffet on the autostrada was reasonable food.