Around The World In 72 Days - Kente Cloth And Ghost Museums

This was our last day of touring for the Around the World in 72 Days trip! On store, visiting a craft center focused on traditional Kente cloth weaving. While weaving is an ancient human craft, the specific story behind Kente dates to the 17th century and the founding of the Ashante Kingdom is fascinating. Here is my usual Wikipedia link for those who want to learn more.

After a very pleasant drive (by Ghana standards) to the center, we were equally blessed with one of the best guides in Ghana.

Kwame

We got detailed examples of how the work is done, most of which I really couldn't follow.

 

Then it was our turn to try. Wife almost got the call but ultimately NAS got the call.

Then, as is always the case with these craft oriented places here, it was trial by marketplace. All the goods are in a single room. But they are separated by the person who made them. You are assaulted by all the various people who do weaving trying to make a sale. You cannot buy from everyone (assuming you want to make a purchase), and some are incredibly pushy. I don't understand why they don't create a cooperative where all the goods could be offered and everyone would benefit. That type of cooperation seems very difficult to attain here (an observation over the five years I've been doing work here).

The successful sale

Examples of traditional Kente patterns

After having had this winner experience, we (of course) needed to balance it with the opposite. In this case an hour and a half ride through crappy roads, and incredible traffic to get to what we hoped was going to be a very different kind of traditional values type of museum. Instead, we found (well barely found because it was off a non-descript dirt road) the skeleton of a museum. Completely abandoned. The gate open. Numerous buildings locked up. Other aspects which showed it either still being built or it having been abandoned.

Looking through the slats of one of the buildings, I saw sculpture figures within

I then started to wander deeper into the grounds

However NAS was feeling uncomfortable about the situation so I desisted. Then we retraced the long drive back.

Tomorrow we throw our fate, once more, into the hands of Africa World Airways to fly back to Accra. A day later, we will begin the long flight back to Albuquerque.

Around The World In 72 Days - Kumasi

Kumasi, in south central Ghana, is the ancestral home of the Ashanti people. For more information on the interesting history of the Ashanti Kingdom go here. My guide here is a co-worker, NAS, who is from this town originally.

Kumasi has all these motorcycle based taxis like you see all over SE Asia (and I understand India and Sri Lanka). You don't see them at all in Accra nor did we see them in the Western Region.

Making our way to the Kumasi Central Mosque

 I just love the vulcanizer concept. So creative and appropriate for what is needed.

 

 Into the interior

 Wife getting ready to preach from where the Imams give their sermons.

 Then it was on to the Manhyia Palace Museum.

We had hoped this would be covering the entirety of the Ashante Kingdom history. No it is basically a glorification of the current King's line dating to 1870 with all kinds of stuff like "This is where the King had his desk," and "Here is the original refrigerator (this was actually shown) and it still works!" opens the door to show a freezer section that has not been defrosted in decades. It was dreadfully boring. AND they would not let you take any pictures. So you get...

One big tree

 

And some gates

 A visit to a craft center was more fruitful though we had the usual issue with people wanting us to buy things we don't need or want.

Drum makers

 Wax carvings for metal casting

 Weaving

 

 Pottery

 

 A painter

 Just a picture

 Our last stop was at the Kwame Nkrumah University of Science and Technology. We were wandering the campus and came to a fine arts section (which seemed a bit out of place for  science and technology university). There was a sculpture garden with work from students past. I was quite taken with it.

Campus hanging out area

An instructor let us wander into an area where they were doing beginning clay work and I chatted up some of the students.

After all our travel ordeals, we were pretty wiped out.  We went out for a completely forgettable Chinese food (half of what was on the menu was unavailable), bought some snacks and ice cream and called it a day.