Sunday, May 19, 2024

Around The World In 72 Days - Ghana, The First Three Days

Our first day was having Wife actually see what all this that she's heard of for years and meet the people. This included both participants, as well as, our Ghana Board members. Unfortunately, I didn't take any pictures of her with our team. But I did get a few of her with the Board.

Wife with JA, one of the most valuable of our Board members. He did a nice presentation to Wife



Our Ghana Board - MF, JA & AA

On Friday, we were doing touring in Accra

First, a new memorial (name forgotten) for a recent President who died in office.

Statue of the deceased President with our living driver MF

Then on to Osu Castle

This is one of many fortifications built by European powers starting in the 16th century to facilitate the slave trade.

Osu Castle was originally developed by the Danish in the 1600's, taken over by the Portuguese, and then the English.

This black stone on the entrance was the symbol for those captured and brought in that they were no longer individuals and free, but were now slaves.

There were dungeons where the new slaves were kept until ready to be sold and transported.

From this vantage point, purchasers would select the slaves they wanted to transport to the new world.

 

This doorway was the 'Door of No Return'

Once slaves went through here, they were put onto ships for the New World and their life as slave laborers.

However, when the slave trade ended the castle was converted to the headquarters of the British colonial government. It subsequently became the first presidential office for the new Republic of Ghana after independence was achieved in 1957.

 



Osu Castle is on the 50 Cedi bill!

 

This is the former office of the Presidents of the Republic

And this is a picture of former President Jerry John Rawlings

Jerry John Rawlings is one of the most controversial and complicated figures in Ghana history. While he was accused of authoritarian rule and atrocities, he also handed power over peacefully to democratic rule, laying the foundation for Ghana being one of the very few stable democracies in Africa.

Nkrumah Memorial

Kwame Nkrumah, the most public initiator of Ghanaian independence was equally complicated but more universally renowned in public history as the Father of Independence and the Republic.


Black Star Square

(The Black Star symbol was pulled from African American Marcus Garvey who created the Black Star shipping line to empower Black economic development after WWI)

Our second day of touring was focused on going to a village some ways out of Accra. Let's just say it was a bust. I take the blame as I pulled the option out of the list of potential things to do as we've had some really great village visiting experiences in the past in other countries. This experience consisted of us driving 2+ hours in heavy traffic and rough roads (apologies Wife, we were actually on the GOOD ROAD during the vast majority of the time), turning on to a rutted, dirt road with numerous deep, muddy spots to go the final way to the village. Our driver (who understands these kinds of driving but has a sedan, not a 4x4) was clearly getting very stressed out as we are going through the countryside with not much signs of human activity other than a few farmer folks walking the dirt road. 

We finally reached the village. Our guide talked to some of the people who were there and asked permission for us to take pictures. I will simply say that the Wife and I felt incredibly uncomfortable and out-of-place and bailed after about 10 minutes. There was supposed to be a  museum further down the road. But encountering a really bad muddy area and hearing the stress in the driver's voice, I pulled rank and had us turn around. 

My limited number of village pictures before retreating






 We were very hungry at that point. Getting back to the main road, our guide located a restaurant, called them, confirmed they were open. It was only 5 minutes away. It was located in a small hotel. Arriving there are no customers. The server, a young woman, seems to know nothing about what is being offered. We're given a menu and told that only one thing on the whole menu can be given to us in less that 45 minutes. Begrudgingly, a second option is offered. We choose them, but the second option doesn't come out until 20 minutes after the first so we have two waves of eating. Then as we leave, a local arrives, He has a two minute conversation, sits down and is served local food immediately. I was pissed. Thankfully the place was listed on Google so I was able to put up a scathing review as we were driving away.

Ah the joys of travel. It's all about the experience. And experiences are not always great. BUT the bad ones are usually the ones that turn into great stories in the future.

Road Food

Our guide and driver are determined to have me show my capabilities as a real gastrointestinal roulette player. They were buying all kinds of things from vendors walking between the cars during our journey. It is almost 48 hours later and I'm still alive. So far I'm a winner.

  A lot is done with corn. This is essentially a corn fritter. The outside was very crunchy and it was slightly sweet. I rate it not bad.

 This is a pudding made from Tiger Nuts. It was warm. And it was pretty good though very filling. Tiger Nuts are evidently very nutritious. 

This is some kind of fried fresh cheese thing. It was also warm. Not that crazy about it.

This is corn with peanuts steamed in corn husks. Sadly it was cold. Would have been much better warm which is the way it is supposed to.

The transaction of getting it.


SIGNS OF THE WORLD

Sorry falconry enthusiasts. You are NOT welcome in Ghana,

Around The World In 72 Days - Adjusting To Ghana

I suspected when we planned this trip that for Wife coming to Ghana was going to be a different kind of experience than prior travel we've done and a bit more of a challenge. For one, she would be experiencing the people and circumstances of Theodora first hand . A second is life and attitudes are so different here from any place she's been. Third, we're here a long time and (in many ways) we're doing this on our own is making a big difference. For example, when we went to Jordan and Albania, we had a tour company set up the entire trip and we only stayed a week. We're dealing with the issues and frustrations of doing things in a lesser developed country more directly.

We're finishing up our third day and my expectations have proven to be correct. We arrived on Wednesday evening from Istanbul after a 7+ hour flight. On Thursday we were right away giving Wife the visit to Theodora. Rather than speak for her, I will put in a link once she gets her own post up. But it was a busy day, with her meeting all kinds of people for the first time in a very, very, very different environment. 

On Friday and Saturday, we did some touring. Despite all my visiting to Accra, my activities are very much limited to what I do for work. I researched getting a guide. I was not happy at all with the pricing I was being offered. Using one of my local people, we finally settled on one. She's nice but a bit inexperienced. Our experience has been frustrating. I will go into this in more detail once I get some pictures up. Today we are resting up. We're going to my favorite pedicurist and will get something to eat. 

Tomorrow is a very busy day at Theodora since we are interviewing potential new participants. Wife is begging off. The office is pretty small and there is no comfortable place for her hang out. So she's going to stay at the apartment and work on getting all her pictures and posting done.

Friday, May 17, 2024

Around The World In 72 Days - Istanbul - Part II - Neighborhoods and Food

More from our fully packed day in Istanbul. 

We went to the neighborhood of Kadikoy. It turned out to be a very, work-a-day, regular kind of place. At first we were wondering what we would see of interest to photograph. But, sure enough, as we wandered the streets, we found more and more of interest.

 Kadikoy

 

 The number of ATM's lining the main road in front of the ferry terminal was mind blowing. I wonder if it has to do with the intense inflation Turkey has suffered with in recent years where people probably only want to take out the cash they immediately need so it does not lose value sitting in their pockets.

Wandering the Streets



Something about the parking lots and their offices that generated a lot of odd stuff


Architecture we've seen before in Istanbul from the late 18th to 19th century

The local food scene. We ate nothing. We were so stuffed from breakfast (see below)



A real deal Turkish bath with separate entrances for men and women

On to Beyoglu

As mentioned in the prior post, we ended up in Taskim Square which is just little ways from where we were staying in the Beyoglu area of town. Taskim is not particularly thrilling photographically. I was wondering whether we should take a taxi back to the apartment. But Google Maps (spawn of Satan that it is) said it was only a 15 minute mostly flat walk to our place. I will simply say, IT WAS NOT FLAT except for the last 20%. Despite this there was a lot to shoot.

Taksim Square



Walking down to the apartment










Eating

Travel to different countries is a constant adventure of surprises due to not fully understanding things. This was the case with having breakfast. We go to this place right across from our apartment. We ask for breakfast. The server shows us a picture. We assume we are buying one item. We are not.




Yes my friends, that is our breakfast. Cheeses, vegetables, olives, borek (savory phylo dough cake), sweet pepper spread, butter in honey, fried potatoes, fried bread, eggs with sausage, braised beef. And washed down with Turkish tea. I'm not a great tea drinker but I love Turkish tea.

This was a feast and I'm proud that Wife and I did a very respectable job finishing a good portion of this off. However, we had absolutely no appetite for anything until the early evening. Then wandering our neighborhood we came across a bunch of kebab places. Kebab in Turkish means roasted. They will have a bunch of meats on skewers like this.

You pick out what you want and they grill it for you.

You get a salad

I had spicy ground lamb while Wife had chicken wings


It was accompanied by a large fresh baked flat bread and pilaf of bulgur wheat. There was a hot, smoked chile condiment with it.

SIGNS OF THE WORLD

Pointing is Prohibited