Portugal-Amsterdam 2022 - #21 - Post-Script, Lisboa Final Meal

 No, that wasn't the last post. This is...maybe. 

Our decision to go to Amsterdam came after we made our original flight reservations to and from Portugal. So we had to fly back to Lisboa (Lisbon) so we could catch our flight home. 

We had all the usual travel related hoo-ha. The bags were slow coming out in Lisboa. I nearly got decapitated by an incompetent old, evidently inexperienced traveler who had his backpack on his back as he flailed around the narrow isle trying to get he and his woman settled. We wandered around the Lisboa airport looking for the place to get our Covid tests because the map the lab sent did not note there are TWO LEVELS of departure check-ins. We wandered even more trying to walk to our airport hotel because 1) Booking doesn't seem to think it is important to state the hotel has a shuttle, and 2) Maps seemed to thing sending us the great circle route was the best way to get to the hotel...whereas in fact you could walk out the front of the terminal and pretty much see it.

But we had a final mission delegated to us by 2B to secure some bottles that are not easily found in the US. As a result we picked up an Uber for the old town of Lisboa. I was successful in our search but we also needed to eat so had one last Portuguese meal in a little hole in the wall place with a good Google rating. It turned out to be the best of our trip.

Wife again had grilled Sea Bass with chips. It was the best rendition of the trip. The fish was super fresh and the chips were well fried and salted. I had a dish I had wanted to try but couldn't because most of the time it was made for two people...seafood rice.

It was a dish reminiscent of pasta in Italy. It started with the flavor being soft and subtle but growing with each bite and never overpowering even at the very end.

We even had dessert which was unusual for us. The tarte was a type of custard that is so popular here. The concoction in the glass was like a tirmasu sundae.

It was a very nice way to end up our trip. We fly home tomorrow.

Portugal-Amsterdam 2022 - #20 - Closing It Out In Amsterdam

 On Tuesday we made our way to Amsterdam. This has been a steady place for visiting with #3 and family having lived here for 16 years. But they are on their way to Copenhagen Denmark following a job opportunity for 3A and will be moving this summer. So this was our last chance to see them in this spot that has been a real favorite of ours (not least to sample some of our favorite street food once again). Given how much effort we put out in Porto, Wife and I were both ready to chill and let our bodies recuperate and spend serious time with each of the family members. So not a whole lot to blog about. So have decided to do a bit of a gastronomic overview of the trip. 

I mentioned throughout my posting that the food in Portugal definitely was a disappointment. It was worst in the Algarve (the south) where other Portuguese said the influence of British expat and vacationers is very strong. In general, we found the food under flavored, especially salt. And there was never salt on the tables! So here are the highlights.

Our first really good meal was in Elvas where we had a very acceptable plate of clams (me), but that incredible fruit salad!

The were things were EXCEPTIONAL all throughout Portugal

Wine

The wine, day in and day out, red or white, was simply the best value I have had anywhere. Better than France. Better than Italy. Better than anywhere. And so economical!

Oranges

Great. Had them all the time and were always delicious.

Pastel de Natas, tiny custard tarts

In Mafra, we had an experience like none I have had where the Airbnb host welcomed us with a ton of cured meat, cheese, breads, and wine.

We had two good meals during our time in Mafra

I ate baccalhao (salt cod), a big favorite in Portugal, numerous times. This preparation was in a cream sauce with potatoes

This was a seafood stew

And in Porto there was one restaurant we went to twice with very good food. I tried this because it was one of those things that I just had to...Tripas a Moda de Porto - Porto style tripe.

What was interesting was this tasted just like ham and beans in the U.S. When you think of the number of Portuguese immigrants over the centuries, it makes sense.

Octopus is very popular as well.

The grilled whole fish was something we frequently had and enjoyed.

I love the tradition of espresso coffee. 

For the vast majority of our life together, Wife has never drunk coffee. But after one of our lunches, WHAT, she ordered one. It was a singular event.

Driving from Mafra to Aveiro, all the restaurants at the autostrada rest stops were closed. We were forced to eat at the gas station itself where I had this.

A hot dog. The bun lined with ham and cheese. Topped with fried potato sticks. Served with Mayo and mustard. A bit weird but not the worst thing I've eaten.

Saved in Porto

Our great Doner Kebap

One thing we won't miss from Amsterdam - Going up the stairs to #3's third story apartment.

We fly to Lisbon tomorrow and catch our flight home on Tuesday

Portugal-Amsterdam 2022 - #20 - Porto Finale

 On our last day in Porto, we finally figured out how to not kill ourselves (maim only) on the steep slopes. We took a long walk that was downhill and straight to the Gondola. Took the Gondola to the upper bridge. Crossed over the bridge. Found ourselves in the center of the downtown/old town section that had nearly killed us the first day. I was so shocked to find us right where we had nearly died, where our desperate hunger was such as we almost went to McDonald's. To celebrate this accomplishment we dined a second time at the Doner Kepab place.

OMG this is Soooo much easier than schlepping up the slope!

 

And there's our apartment - middle building, middle apartment

The gondola view of the city

Across the bridge we go!

Great views from here too!

The evil, inoperative funicular that would have saved us the climb on day one.

And then...RAIN!...Get the rain coats on! Protect the cameras! Flee!

First stop - Porto Cathedral

Yup...MORE BAROQUE/ROCOCO!

 

At least there was a stained glass window

And there was tile work of a whole different quality and human expression than prior churches visited.

Seriously, I think this could become the emblem for de-I Sandia Outfitters Group!

Outside the Cathedral was a statue in honor of the Patron Saint of Cruise Ship Tour Guides, Saint Fall O'wmedam Nit.

On to the Train Station...right where we were four days ago. I mean on the very corner and we didn't know it! Of course we were about dead at that point too so I suppose we would not have enjoyed it. It is the massive building on the right.

Why are we going to the Train Station? Because in the late 19th century, the train stations of the world were being build as monumental public art works by governments. And the tile work in the lobby of this station was done exclusively by one artist. It was, without doubt, the most amazing we saw on the trip and a fitting finale.

A panorama view

The tile tableaux include both historical stories and scenes of everyday life. And the human emotion representation? Well, I will let you come to your own conclusion. 

There was one last 'obligatory bit of tourism' needed. The river cruise. 

And to say goodbye to Porto, one last going up our 'short walk' from where the shopping is back to the apartment.